Loading
This is not one trek. It is two Mays a year apart — Hampta Pass in 2022 with my brother and his friends, Sar Pass in 2023 on my own — plus the valleys around Manali and Tosh that both trips started from. Sorted into the bands they share, from the river at the bottom to the ridge where there is nothing left to walk up. 33 frames, in the order the ground puts them in rather than the order I took them.
Every altitude here is approximate and labelled as such. The photographs are exact.
scroll to begin the climb ↓
Every one of these walks began the same way: a river on the left, pines closing overhead, a village that thins out behind you within the hour. Both trips spent their first days down here, around Manali and Tosh, before either of them went up.




Deodar closes over the trail and the weather stops being something you can see coming. Six frames from this band, and in most of them the mountain is only implied.




Meltwater, moss-covered boulders, and the part of the day everyone remembers because of how cold their feet were. This band is Hampta Pass, May 2022, walked with my brother and a few of his friends.




The last trees are always the most interesting ones — bent, thinned out, standing further apart than they want to.




This is the band the whole archive is really about. Two of these were lit by someone's red headlamp, which is the only light you get at that hour. Nagaru is on the Sar Pass route — May 2023, the trip I started with friends in the valley and finished with a trek group after they went home.




Nothing grows here and there is still a lake. why this one stayed with you



Above the snow line there is no trail, only the line the person in front of you chose.



Five frames, all taken within about an hour of each other, all of them trying and failing to record how much air there was.




Every summit is a small, temporary agreement with the weather.